To be fair, not all are. Sainsbury's, Waitrose and the Co-op all came out well from 'Jamie's Fowl Dinners', compiled and presented by Jamie Oliver. Both of my non UK readers will wonder what I'm talking about. So, for you, a synopsis of the TV show was to follow chicken egg and chicken meat production from egg to table, comparing the methods of rearing, letting the audience judge which was appropriate for their budget and emotional needs.
Previous programmes in the week showed Hugh fearnley-Whittingstall running what had to be anathema to him - a factory chicken farm. Together they made gripping, if somewhat horrifying television.
Since I work from home very often, the weekly shopping often falls on my shoulders. I cook, too, and I've been cooking and eating budget chicken for years. On Thursday, even before Jamie's Fowl Dinners, Sainsbury's were completely out of free range chickens, but the shelves of value chickens, the dirt cheap stuff I have been in the habit of buying, were full. People were just not putting them into their trolleys. And people were discussing it with other total strangers while looking at the shelves.
On the Friday show, Sainsbury's showed total progress towards free range, as did Waitrose, and the Co-op. And Hellmans the mayonnaise giant, stated an end date to caged eggs being used as an ingredient. ASDA showed a lack of understanding of the power of television, amusing and ironic with their huge TV campaigns, and Tesco showed that it intended to keep on taking £1 in every £8 spent in the UK high street no matter what.
But the thing, the real thing, was the emptiness of the Sainsbury's shelves. This was not advertising. This was my local Bracknell British public voting with its wallet. If we can afford it we will pay more for animal welfare in our food chain. We said so on Thursday.
And this was caused by simple, accurate documentary television that was distasteful to watch - TV that caused more people to hide behind the sofa than Dr Who's monsters. Daleks are pussycats compared with a good and ethical stockman culling useless birds in your living room.
The thing that annoys me about this, insofar as one can be annoyed by anything leading to better animal husbandry, is that the losers will always be the farmers.
Farmers respond to markets. Today's market is the supermarket buying team. That team has driven the produced price of a food chicken to £0.03 per bird. Three pence. Three. That's not even worth converting into other currencies - it's pathetically small, and has to be below the cost of production, discounting everything else. This price per bird means that the bedding, sold for fertiliser, is more valuable than the meat!
"What do you farm?"
"Oh I produce shit, by the ton. As a by-product we sell chickens to the supermarkets!"
Farmers are, not unreasonably, angry. They have been backed into the corner of investing hugely in unpleasant technology, are mortgaged to the hilt, and are now seeing a week of TV shows threaten their investment and threaten supermarket buying patterns. To re-invest in less intensive methods while the current investment is not recovered is a huge thing to ask them to do. This is one of the reasons why the juggernaut takes so long to turn.
Supermarkets respond to consumers, though. The question is, with the huge power of this week of TV showing how unpleasant the standard and approved production methods are, how will the farmer be able to respond?
More cynically, how high will the supermarkets raise the price of free range poultry to take advantage of the new demand for better conditions in food production?